Last updated : October 12, 2026 9:28 am
We are moving from a model based mainly on observation towards one supported by imaging, measurements, biomarkers, artificial intelligence and increasingly sophisticated formulation
Professor Dr Gabriel Serrano Sanmiguel is a Spanish-Colombian dermatologist, researcher and entrepreneur who founded Sesderma and Mediderma Laboratories in 1989 and pioneered the use of nanotechnology in dermocosmetics. Today, Sesderma operates in over 100 markets, driven by scientific innovation and personalised skincare.
In an exclusive interview with Rahul Koul, Editor, Indian Pharma Post, Professor Dr. Gabriel Serrano, Founder, Sesderma shared his views on the latest technologies in dermatology, role of AI, priorities for Indian derma companies and more.
Nanotechnology is increasingly discussed as the next frontier in skincare. What is the real potential of nanotechnology in delivering active ingredients more precisely to specific layers of the skin?
For me, nanotechnology is not a fashionable word; it is a tool for solving one of the fundamental problems of dermatology: the skin is designed to protect us and therefore it does not allow many active molecules to penetrate where we need them to act.
The real potential of nanotechnology is to make delivery more accurate. By encapsulating an active ingredient in an appropriate carrier, we can improve its stability, penetration, bioavailability and controlled release, helping it reach the epidermis or deeper skin compartments rather than simply remaining on the surface. Modern nanocarriers, including liposomes, lipid nanoparticles, polymeric systems and hybrid systems are increasingly being studied for this purpose.
This is the philosophy behind our work with liposomal technology: the objective is not simply to make a molecule smaller, but to understand the skin and deliver the right active, in the right way, to where it can produce the desired biological effect.
I believe the next step will be even more sophisticated delivery systems, with greater control over where an ingredient is released and for how long. That is where nanotechnology becomes truly interesting for dermatology.
How important will personalised skincare become as technologies such as skin imaging, biomarkers and AI increasingly converge with advanced formulation science?
It will become extremely important, because every person's skin is different. I have spent many years listening to patients and this has taught me an important lesson: we should not treat a skin problem simply because a product is popular; we should understand what the skin actually needs.
We are moving from a model based mainly on observation towards one supported by imaging, measurements, biomarkers, artificial intelligence and increasingly sophisticated formulation. Skin hydration, pigmentation, elasticity, barrier function and other parameters can already be measured, and AI can help us interpret large amounts of information.
But technology must remain the servant of medicine, not the other way around. Personalisation should not mean making thousands of complicated products. It means identifying the patient's needs more accurately and then selecting the appropriate active ingredients, concentrations, delivery systems and combinations.
I believe the future will be simpler for the patient and more technical behind the scenes.
What does the next generation of topical drug-delivery systems look like? Are we moving towards more sophisticated carriers capable of delivering molecules to specific skin compartments or even specific cell types?
Absolutely! We are already moving in that direction, although we must distinguish between what is scientifically promising and what is clinically established.
The next generation will increasingly combine controlled-release systems, lipid and polymeric carriers, nanogels, vesicles and other intelligent delivery platforms. The objective will be to improve deposition in particular skin compartments, protect fragile molecules and release them under controlled conditions. Current research is already investigating systems designed for more selective delivery and cellular uptake.
I am particularly interested in the evolution from simple delivery towards biological communication. This is one reason why I consider exosome-based approaches so interesting. At Sesderma, our research has evolved from liposomal nanotechnology towards exosome-based systems, which we see as another way of communicating with the biology of the skin.
The ultimate objective is very simple: the molecule should arrive where it is needed, at the right concentration, for the appropriate period of time, while maintaining safety and tolerance.
Are there significant gaps in the global dermatology literature when it comes to Indian and South Asian skin, and where is more research urgently needed?
Yes, there has been important progress, but we still need much more research specifically designed around Indian and South Asian skin.
One area that deserves particular attention is pigmentation. Indian skin has a high burden of disorders such as melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and pigmentation biology. Responses to treatment can differ according to skin type and phototype.
More broadly, dermatology has historically suffered from insufficient representation of darker and more diverse skin types in clinical research. Analyses of dermatology trials have found limitations in the representation and reporting of skin-of-colour populations, which makes it more difficult to know whether findings can be confidently extrapolated to every population.
India therefore represents not simply a large market, but an enormous scientific opportunity. We need more Indian clinical trials, better photographic and imaging databases, studies of pigmentation and inflammation, research into the skin barrier and microbiome and long-term studies of how different treatments perform in higher phototypes.
The important thing is to listen to Indian dermatologists and Indian patients. Innovation should begin with the real needs of the skin.
What’s next in dermocosmetics? Where do you see the biggest convergence happening between dermatology, biotechnology, nanotechnology, AI and advanced skincare formulation over the next five to ten years?
I see a convergence of several sciences rather than one single revolution. Nanotechnology will improve delivery. Biotechnology will give us new biological ingredients and regenerative approaches. AI will help us analyse the skin and personalise treatment. Advanced formulation will bring these elements together into products that are more precise, stable and better tolerated.
I also believe the boundary between dermatology, aesthetics and preventive health will continue to become smaller. Health and beauty go hand in hand. The skin is the largest organ of the body and reflects many aspects of our general wellbeing.
At Sesderma, we have always tried to work from the clinical problem towards the laboratory and then back to the patient. That philosophy will remain important. The future is not technology for technology's sake. It is technology that gives the dermatologist a better answer and gives the patient a better result.
I believe skincare will become simpler for the consumer, but much more sophisticated scientifically. That is the direction I see for the next decade.
If you were advising Indian skincare companies today, what is the one area of scientific innovation you would encourage them to invest in over the next five years?
I would invest in precision dermatology for Indian skin, bringing together advanced delivery systems, clinical research and technologies that allow us to understand the individual skin more accurately.
India has enormous diversity in phototypes, pigmentation patterns, environmental exposure, climate and lifestyle. This should be treated as a scientific advantage, not a limitation.
I would encourage companies to build strong clinical research programmes with Indian dermatologists and patients, generate high-quality Indian skin datasets, and use that knowledge to develop formulations and delivery systems specifically adapted to these needs.
If you understand the skin, identify the problem, develop the right formulation and deliver the active where it is needed, you are not simply selling cosmetics; you are advancing dermatology.
That has always been my philosophy: “listen to the skin first, and let science provide the answer.”